installation instructions 123ignition/2CV
The
123ignition/2CV is designed for the standard (black!) 2CV-coil, and can
be used with 12 volt systems only. (There is also a 123ignition/blue that
does work with a Visa coil) If you hook a ‘123ignition/2CV’ up to a VISA
coil (brown), you are guaranteed to damage the system!
Why? a black 2CV coil is about 3.6 Ohms resistance, a Visa coil is just 0.9 Ohms resistance. SO DO NOT USE ANY OTHER COIL!
Why? a black 2CV coil is about 3.6 Ohms resistance, a Visa coil is just 0.9 Ohms resistance. SO DO NOT USE ANY OTHER COIL!
The method
of setting ignition timing is clearly described but you may also use the
dynamic method (using a strobe light). The unit has variable dwell angle
– so if you use conventional methods to examine dwell (just for checking
because you can not adjust it) the results may well surprise you! The dwell
actually varies according to the quality of your particular 2cv coil so
that the best 2cv coil produces the best spark.
Install the unit precisely as follows:
Step 1.
Install the unit precisely as follows:
Step 1.
Turn
the ignition off. Remove the engine fan, and the rubber shield behind
it to gain access to the points box. Note the two wires coming out
of the front of the fan shroud. One runs to the oil pressure sender
unit, the other one runs from the negative terminal on the coil to the
terminal on the points box. Disconnect only this wire from the coil
and also from the points box. Do not damage or cut this wire.
It may come in useful sometime in the future.
Step 2.
Remove
(1) the points box along with the condenser. Set aside (to use again)
the two M7 bolts and square washers. Remove (2) the metal protector
plate to gain access to the centrifugal advance mechanism. Carefully
remove (3) the circlip ring from the end of the camshaft so that you can
remove (4) the thrust washer, (5) the cam assembly and (6) the centrifugal
weights. Put these 6 parts in the 123 plastic packaging and store in a
safe place.
Step 3.
Step 3.
Thoroughly
clean the area, inspect the point where the crank shaft comes out of the
block. If the cavity is caked with an excessive amount of oil
and dirt, you may have an engine problem. After cleaning everything, slide
the two brass tubes (containing magnets) onto the 5mm spindles at the end
of the camshaft. Install the ‘123ignition/2CV’ with the two M7 bolts
and square washers (must be square washers). Leave the bolts a little
loose so that you can still rotate the ignition unit in the housing.
Align the dimple at the bottom of the unit with the seam of the crankshaft.
Step 4.
Step 4.
Run the
three wires, (yellow, black and red) along the bottom of the fan shroud,
and out through the rubber grommet in the front (note – this grommet must
be intact).Tuck the wires carefully under the metal tabs inside the fan
housing, and make sure they can not come into contact with the fan!
Now pull the second wire off the coil (i.e. the wire that connects the
positive terminal on the battery, through the ignition key, to the positive
terminal on the coil). Connect this wire only to the red wire coming
from the ‘123ignition/2CV’, using the connectors supplied with the kit.
It is most important that all connectors are properly tightened. (On the
label ‘BOB’ is an abbreviation for ‘bobine’ (coil))
DO
NOT CONNECT THE WIRES TO THE COIL YET!
Step 5.
Step 5.
Insert
the 6mm timing rod (or a 6mm drill bit) through the hole in the crankcase.
Turn the engine over by hand (removing the spark plugs makes this easy)
until the rods slides into the hole in the flywheel. Your engine
is now set at 8 degrees before TDC (Top Dead Centre). Clean one of
the teeth of the starter ring gear and a small area opposite it on the
block. The area next to the starter motor works well. With
a fresh bottle of ‘Tippex’ accurately paint a timing mark on the tooth
and engine block. Remove the timing rod or drill bit!
Step 6.
Step 6.
Make
sure the engine is set at 8 degrees before TDC. (step 5). Turn the ignition
on. Turn the ‘123ignition/2cv’ housing anti-clockwise until the LED goes
out. Turn it clockwise very carefully until the LED just comes on again,
tighten the two M7 bolts.
Step 7.
Step 7.
Check
your timing as follows: Put a wrench on the fan bolt and turn the
engine over slowly (clockwise!). The LED should light up at the exact
moment when the timing marks you made are aligned. If this is not
the case, repeat step 6.
Step 8.
Step 8.
Turn
the ignition off. Hook up the yellow wire to the positive terminal
on the coil. Hook up the black wire to the negative terminal on the coil.
Use the connectors supplied with the kit. Make sure all your electrical
connections are secure, a bad connection can cause a major problem in the
future! Tidy up everything carefully, e.g. use tie-wraps.
Step 9.
Step 9.
Reinstall
the rubber shield, fan (and spark plugs if you removed them). Double check
to make sure the fan does not touch the wires!
Step 10.
Step 10.
A myth
exists that you should increase spark plug gap when using electronic ignition
– it is a myth only! Note do not allow spark plugs to have a gap greater
than 0.70mm, exceeding this gap causes radio interference and puts more
strain on your ignition coil and H.T. leads, the same applies even more
when using original contact breaker points set up. Fire it up and enjoy……………………….!
Steam cleaning/pressure washing!
Steam cleaning/pressure washing!
Do not
steam clean or pressure wash your engine with 123ignition attached – remove
it and replace when cleaning is finished.
There are no user serviceable or adjustable parts in 123ignition, please do not attempt to dismantle.
123ignition was conceived in and manufactured in Holland.
There is no copyright claimed on this instruction page – it may be freely copied as required!
There are no user serviceable or adjustable parts in 123ignition, please do not attempt to dismantle.
123ignition was conceived in and manufactured in Holland.
There is no copyright claimed on this instruction page – it may be freely copied as required!